Rabbits hid from a large Labrador retriever under the prickly cover of a large raspberry patch knowing the dog wouldn’t enter and could possibly be distracted by the sweet-tasting plump berries. Also hiding under the prickles was a small forest of maple saplings. Lush green grass formed the boundary on three sides while the fourth side was a pole barn converted into a large shop. The prickles not only deterred the dog but also the person responsible for removing this rapidly growing forest. By the time the saplings were noticeable they had become small four foot tall trees – a few months later they were stretching for the eves of the pole barn. Top pruning them only made the trunk get thicker. The time had come to put the toothy pruning saw to work.Corona’s Razor Tooth Seven Inch Pruning Saw, a pair of gauntlet garden gloves and bulky coveralls made this project quick and easier. This pruning saw threatens with three-sided razor teeth. It cuts coming and going, pushing and pulling.
The saplings growing among the raspberries had reached a trunk size of three to four inches with heights of up to 15 feet. They grow fast. We needed to remove this future forest soon or they would probably reach 30 feet by the end of summer. My hand-held pruners certainly weren’t up to the task, nor were my loppers. Space was insufficient for the bulkier chain saw or the clunky rectangular pruning saw.
About the Pruning Saw
"Each whetstone-ground razor tooth is sharpened on three sides for a blade that cuts twice as fast as conventional saws."- The handle is ergonomically designed with a cushioned pistol-style grip.
- The tempered steel alloy blade folds into the handle for safety and storage and fits into a scabbard.
- The blade is seven inches long and is easily replaced with a screwdriver.
- The blade locks into the handle.
- This is designed to cut small to medium green branches, but works quite well on small trunks. It doesn’t cut dead, dry wood but slips through green, growing trunks like a warm knife in butter.
When Pruning
- Follow the appropriate techniques and seasons (not all trees can be cut at any time of the year) for the tree’s species. There are a lot of good books that cover the topic and are easy to understand. Local university ag extension offices also tend to have free publications with guidelines for pruning regional trees. John Cushnie's book, How to Prune: An Illustrated Guide to Easy Pruning for Every Plant and Every Season, is a good place to start.
- Wear safety goggles. I never really think about it much since I wear glasses, but, a small twig escaped while I was making some fast cuts and it flew into my eye. The scratch wasn’t serious, but my vision was blurred for a day—I was lucky.
- Don’t climb unstable ladders while pruning. You don't even want to think about falling on this blade.
When Finished
Use a stiff brush and warm soapy water to remove any remaining sap. If this doesn’t remove all of the sap you might want to complete the task with cleaning solvent. It’s difficult to use steel wool or sandpaper on this toothy blade. Be certain all plant material is removed from the teeth. (I often wonder if flossing would help.) Pat it dry using a soft cloth.Plus: Blade has rip power, compact, folds, fits Corona scabbard
Minus:Need a larger blade for larger projects.
What They’re Saying
This very portable saw can handle any lightweight pruning task. It works great in close quarters. It didn’t gum up on the maple’s sap and it was easy to clean. The tri-cut blade cuts fast, it took less than a minute to cut down a tree with a three-inch trunk. How long this lasts depends upon how often you use it and how well you clean the blade. Replacement blades are relatively inexpensive and if you’re anticipating a task with lots of pruning keep a back-up blade around. This small, toothy, potentially vicious hand-held saw will cut through a forest of small trees in a hurry; it’s a sweet little pruning saw with teeth that would make a vampire or wolf envious.copyright © 2015-2017 pestyside
No comments:
Post a Comment